For Autumn Winter 2016 designers Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford look to the use of military uniform in British subcultures old and new. Focusing on the concept of appropriating establishment uniformity to create anti-establishment individualism, the father and son duo realize a vision seen through their eyes of how these two disparate worlds, with often opposing ideals, come to collide. References move from the early 60's psychedelic imagery of the Beatles' Sergeant Pepper album, inspiring the highlight colours in the collection, through to the use of military clothing by the modern hip hop musicians of today. Skinhead and 90's rave culture, ongoing interests of the design duo, are spliced together with formal military regalia. With DNA rooted in craftsmanship and modern sportswear, for AW16 Casely-Hayford collaborate with American shoe brand Sperry. A hybrid boat shoe/creeper nods to the Teddy boys of the past whilst referencing the modern sportswear culture of today. Waterproof trainers are given new context through the introduction of a technical wool upper. The design process moves pieces such as the lapels and collar of the simple two button tailored lounge jacket into a streamlined military-influenced breastplate. Hand embroidered traditional regimental ornamentation is re-imagined in MA1 nylon khaki with orange lining to create a visual language of inverse uniformity.