London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2016-17:JW Anderson
“We always use this space, but I liked the idea of an interior setting,” said the designer backstage. Those panels gave a feeling of being hemmed in, or as he put it; “I like the idea of confrontation of clothing, the way you can be absorbed by it.” It was a show, he said quite plainly, focused on cocktail wear. “I was thinking about what feels modern in cocktail wear now, playing with structure, texture and proportion.”
Cocktail wear sounds easy enough, but in J.W's hands it rarely ever is. He proposed shiny satin shirting with zipped collars and postcard-sized leather squares depicting a rose in studs attached to the breast like a brooch. They were partnered with A-line skirts with curling rigid hemlines painted in bands of green, yellow and black, or others crafted from layer upon layer of zip-edged leather petals. Crunchy silk trousers were ruched and ruffled; bib shirting was crisp and armored in pyramid studs or otherwise leather bands punched with grommets. It was sharp and with a confident, clear point of view. "It was an exercise in fashion, I wanted it to be about fashion.” If the fact that everyone here this afternoon wanted a piece of it then job done.