"I was revisiting my roots, really," Smith said, greeting press in typically jocular fashion after the show, in the college's library, temporarily requisitioned for racks of clothes and make-up. "You see that apple shirt?" he gestured at a silk shirt printed with glossy red apples (a repeat of which was on the show invitation, before it retreated into an apple core motif on black tailoring). "I did that in 1982." The repeating paisley print - which appeared appliquéd on to black coats, in a squiggly monochrome on jackets and trousers, and wandering across suiting - was another self-referential element. "I used to sell vintage paisley scarves in my shop," he said, "and paisley's such a traditional, classic pattern, I wanted to include it." He also included a multi-coloured brocade suit, one in lurex, one in poplin, as a nod to his print heritage, which jostled for attention alongside his familiar relaxed suiting silhouette in rosy pinks and navy with pops of tomato red.