Vetements Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2016-17
The pews had been turned inwards creating narrow catwalks - fashion quite literally in your face, a neat metaphor for this design collective. Led by creative director Demna Gvasalia and his brother, CEO Guram, they have been happily - and rather smartly as it may turn out - upturning show protocol whilst also garnering the ecstatic attention of the fashion cognoscenti with their anarchic take on everyday streetwear.They announced last month that from January next year they will show their mens and womenswear together and only twice a year, in a catwalk presentation that will take place two months earlier than the traditional start of the international shows. Are you keeping up? On top of this, to evade high-street copies, they will show spring/summer in January, not autumn/winter (as they did this season) and the product will drop in the stores by February. Deconstructed, their thinking makes sense, and is much easier to achieve when you are still small and nimble. It will be interesting to see if Demna can persuade his new boss at Balenciaga, where he is now creative director, to follow suit. His first collection, showing on Sunday, is the hotly anticipated ticket of Paris this week.