New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 : Jeremy Scott
There were orbital silver dresses crafted in Saturnian rings, lurex and lamé to make the heart grow fonder, and plexi-glass encrusted mosaic dresses that went rather well with Scott's collaboration du jour: Moon Boots. "I thought how fun and ridiculous skyscraper Moon Boots would be," he reflected, so the sky became his limit. It's a fact that troubling times breed creative exuberance, but another cliché is that of the escapism that naturally follows. After the political shockwaves fashion had to deal with last year it may have been the case then, but you'd like to think that the phase we're entering now as a creative industry is more constructive than escapist. "There's so much serious shit going on in the world, the last thing I wanna be is another one of them," Scott said, hitting the nail on the head. "The only thing I wanna do is bring a little bit of joy. A smile is contagious." To Scott, it's about changing mindsets, not escaping them.
At the men's shows in January, the designer presented a heavily fetishised collection for Moschino - where he also serves as creative director - in which he took bondage to its gimp-suited extreme. Observing a model in one such shiny black PVC suit backstage, his face fully covered in the mask, Scott smiled and asked, "Would you find him aggressive? I don't know, I find him quite cute." His show on Thursday evening in New York was the subversive take on that same upside-down notion. Behind all the pink fluff and poly-urethane was a slightly twisted sense of the perverse; an illustration, perhaps, of the volatile and monumental times in which we now find ourselves.