Rome. 1980s. The rebellious and bourgeois style of My First Forty Years. Printed carves, soft chenille, thoughtful draping, and shimmering fabrics are presented in exaggerated shapes and volumes. Coup de théâtre, the hyperbole of the female wardrobe.
For its 2018/19 Autumn/Winter collection, Vivetta shuffles its cards and ventures into an aesthetic universe that is diametrically opposed to its creative parabola, making of it a subject that is exuberantly light and colourful. It explores the romanticism of the era with curiosity, yet without nostalgia, updating yesterday’s styles with an entirely modern and joyous look.
Beginning with prints: lips, hearts, surreal figures, the saccharine imagery is sharpened, glamourized, turned into pure entertainment. And the scarves, with their printed patterns advertising perfumes, a classic of the era, leap from the banal to the exceptional. Lastly, python prints are presented as an iridescent hologram.Female empowerment, a symbol of the decade. The fabrics of the great masculine tradition are illuminated with sorbet-like colours: overcheck and glen plaid shed the solemnity of English wool and are enhanced by striking details like lacquered, eye-shaped buttons. The jacket becomes a shirt and the shirt becomes a jacket: thanks to the tufting technique, the two worlds combine.
Not just evening wear, Vivetta’s new evolution focuses on daytime couture as well. With ribbons, ruches, and draping that hang on the body, like a little girl trying on her mother’s dress, changing lines, development, and proportions. Everything is short or very long with embroidery that enhances its delicacy. The hands, a central theme for Vivetta, create new woven garments while Swarovski crystals punctuate and underline designs and prints. Finally, sport re-establishes the power of casual: oversized, printed, and colourful down-filled garments are the season’s new outerwear.