This season Antonin Tron did have an abstract inspiration – surfing – but it was obliquely understood. Tron himself is a surfer, and “there’s a certain sensuality that I find in the whole thing,” he said. “Changing in the parking lot or the back of the car, the wetsuits, the mood…” That sensual spontaneity was present throughout (plaid overskirts and coats flung open as models walked; wetsuit leggings unpeeled down their bodies) as was his proclivity for activewear – beside the impeccable tailoring he has quickly become known for, there were form-fitting draped jersey dresses ruched with toggles, wetsuit zips and wool-bouclé jumpers as an alternative to those ubiquitous outdoorsy fleeces.
Often liberation appears an excuse for shabbily-cut clothes, or scrappy fabrications, but Tron is just absolving his collections from explicit references or narratives and making really good clothes.Atlein was in homage to the Atlantic Ocean: to its freedom and movement and internationalism.