If anyone knows how to cut through it sharply, it's Anderson.Perversity aside, this collection was his best for the house, composed of sensual tailoring, breathtaking outerwear, and the most cohesive integration of Loewe leather into ready-to-wear yet. A slouching wool jersey suit was perfectly formed and then slashed in its back; cotton plissé sculpted with lashings of top-stitched calfskin; inlaid strips of lace gave a leather column dress fluid form. There was a severity in technique - slicing and splicing and slashing - and clean cuts with minimal decoration made for impeccable clothes. Coats and capes were quietly impressive, covetable for their precise craftsmanship and perfect fabrication rather than bells and whistles; equally, plain leather rucksacks have never looked so appealing. Through reduction, the craftsmanship of the house - which Anderson is so fanatical about - had an opportunity to shine. Referring to the reading material he presented us with, he explained that "you don't have to run away from classicism; you change the cover and you make it relevant for today… I liked the idea of republishing books in the languages they were originally done in." The original language of Loewe is a meticulous attention to detail, leatherwork and luxury - and here Anderson published them anew, without any bells and whistles to distract. That is what is so uniquely compelling about Anderson: both the veneer of his vision, and its perverse undertones.
