Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2018 : Stella McCartney
Bustiers and negligees were embellished onto done-up lace and velvet tops, quite literally pushing the old underwear-as-outerwear chestnut. And with great results. “Anything forced at Stella McCartney feels wrong, which is why everything here has an appeal to you as a human,” the designer noted, never one for self-efficacy. The show marked the debut of her excellent menswear on the runway, a corner of fashion that comes natural to McCartney, who trained on Savile Row and has always imbued her womenswear with heritage menswear codes.
Those men’s looks - an opulent herringbone coat, a roomy check blazer - established a clear line to the women’s tailoring in the collection. But it also ignited thoughts of the times we live in, and that contrast between the sexes, which suddenly feels more novel than ever. “It is really interesting times - and it’s fascinating - but we’re trying to do it in a way that still feels effortless and comfortable. We want to celebrate the relationship between men and women and embrace it,” McCartney said. Rather than playing down the debate of our gender-related differences she put it in neon lights, devoting half of her collection to deshabillé dressing - the undone lingerie elements, the J.H. Lynch paintings of scantily clad voluptuous women transferred to garments and overlaid with tulle - and the other half to the values of menswear.