London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019: Tisci's Burberry
It was an interesting point of departure for a fashion institution of a country so rooted in classes and subcultures that those of us, who emigrated here basically needed a handbook to understand them all upon arrival. Posh, middle-class, "chav" and all those terms have esoterically British definitions, and often sensitive ownerships. In that sense, Tisci’s ambitions were very much in keeping with contemporary waves around the world seeking to unify us all across cultures and identities. But it’s a strategy that’s also undeniably focused on markets, something to which Tisci has to cater way more at a major brand like Burberry than in his former career at Givenchy. In his final collections for Burberry, Christopher Bailey increasingly zoned in on the streetwear that gets the millennial credit cards going. Tisci wanted more than that.
“I was the first one to bring streetwear into fashion,” he said, referring to Givenchy. “Now I think fashion has gone too street. You can dress the mother, dress the daughter. Why have just one entity when you can propose for every age, every culture; different lifestyles?” His philosophy generated a something-for-everyone collection of 133 exits, stretching from professional uniforms for the bourgeois executive to directional statement dressing and streetwear for the new generations, and sophisticated glamour for those with glitz in the diary.