The British creative director at Max Mara had been reading retellings of ancient Greek mythology, told from the perspective of the previously marginalised or maligned women in the tales. Classics rewritten - that’s Griffiths’ task every season. This was a study in shades of brown and beige, a big colour card for spring, not least due to Riccardo Tisci’s slate-cleaning exercise at Burberry. “She’s one part amazon, one part ocean goddess,” said Griffiths, of his Max Mara woman. He talked backstage of “arming her” for the city with one-shouldered silhouettes, vinyl pencil skirts and sheath dresses, and bags slung decisively across the body. Also enlisted were curious snap-fastened leg-warmers and chic headscarves paired with bug-eyed sunglasses. He was thinking, too, about the weather, “because it’s so unpredictable. England had a hot summer but we had rain every day in July in Italy.” Today’s women need an arsenal of coats: a trench, in polka-dotted gabardine, perhaps; a parka, daffodil yellow (inspired by Mediterranean sunshine); a pea coat, in biscuity wool. But this collection’s Golden Fleece? A buttery soft leather trench in conker brown or rich olive.