Prada Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019 : Two opposites
Miuccia Prada wanted to represent the clash between these two opposites. That’s what’s happening in the reality out there.” She may have had to rejig a few proposals in recent seasons to get her company’s growth back in the game. A few reissued classics. Banana shirts everyone’s wearing. Something for the fans. Now she’s up by nine percent compared to three last year, but her time in the spotlight is never going to be about that. Mrs Prada is at heart a tastemaker, but her ambitions reach much further than influencing what handbag you might want to buy next season. This collection was pure politics. She detected the cliché codes of the left and the right. Tie dye vs. crystal embellishment. Swimsuit tops vs. chiffon blouses. Miniskirts vs. tennis skirts. T-shirts vs. duchess silk skirts.
The latter combo made up her favourite looks in the collection: a literal meeting between casual and formal, or liberal and conservative. “I tried to break the rules,” she said, and she wasn’t simply referring to formal codes. “When it’s too much no one will embrace it: too much fantasy, too much craziness…” It made for a certain drabness, no doubt influenced by Mrs Prada’s political mood. Sometimes she doubled up on the same codes – classic with classic, irreverent with irreverent – in the search of “something new,” a key objective in the challenge of retaining the revenue that’s back on track for her company. The dainty nylon cabans, swimwear-style cut-out knitwear, or the somewhat heart-shaped red handbags were all viable contenders for next-season big sellers, while Prada’s prints tend to hit a homerun with existing fan bases. She introduced tie dye and psychedelic motifs on skirts and minidresses, alongside a vintage print with silhouettes of women and men. And there was a fair amount of youth to the affair, in cutesy baby doll dresses, Alice bands, and tops cut like swimsuits; not to mention the branding that makes millennial hearts grow fonder.