London Fashion Week Review : David Koma Spring Summer 2019
What sounds like it could be a recipe for chaos actually appeared thoroughly cohesive: rather than going full Carmen Miranda, Koma simply integrated a new dynamism into his modernist aesthetic and applied top-stitched flounces to scuba-style dresses; explored fishtail silhouettes and plenty of peplums. He is a very good technician, and some particularly good dresses, formed from vertically striped silk tulle, swung at the skirt with remarkable grace; the application of hand-stitched disks offered twinkling glitz to the show-stopping numbers (it’s a skill to make that much embellishment appear so ethereally light).
This season was Koma’s first segue into full-length gowns, and surely his customer base is simply wondering what took him so long – his woman is the sort who has plenty of occasion for them. While they might be more likely to wear them atop a yacht than to a juerga, his dresses packed plenty of punch – and their flocked polka dots will make for a good conversation starter at the inevitably abundant trunk shows to follow.