Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019: Christian Dior
It was her first time at that rodeo, but not for the fashion industry, which has so often mixed performance art and runway shows to cringeworthy lows. Perhaps that’s what made this one so thrilling. Rarely has any foreign element in a fashion show been so entrancing, or added as much character to a collection as the one Chiuri commissioned from Sharon Eyal’s dance company this afternoon, in a dimmed tent in Bois de Boulogne. Maybe it’s because it wasn’t trying to be poignant. Rather, it was energised, spirited, ravishing and totally transfixing. You could have sat there all day getting shivers watching those racehorse bodies tripping and floating like they were trapped somewhere between underwater weightlessness and on fire, white rose petals dropping from the ceiling in thousand-fold. The soundtrack was amazing and hard to describe.
“I’m lucky to open the week. There’s only another show tonight,” Chiuri said, referring to Paris Fashion Week’s special guest star Gucci, who would have opened the ball had Dior not moved its show to Monday afternoon; not that it wouldn’t look as mesmerising on Tuesday at 2.30. “Because during fashion week the shows go by so fast and sometimes you lose the experience. And now, with the new media, you see the show through a phone. So, it’s important to convey the idea of us living in the moment. I hope that with this performance we can create something that people want to experience and get involved with us. Not behind a phone,” Chiuri paused. “Probably I dream!” (Indeed, putting on a mind-blowing dance performance isn’t exactly the way to make us stop Instagramming.) “I try to speak more about experience and less about just clothes,” she said. “We are speaking about the future of fashion. Something more. Fashion is not the same as when I started out. We are living in another moment.”