Bahrain is yet again Noon By Noor’s source of inspiration, this time for the Spring/Summer 2019 collection, designed by Noor Rashid Al Khalifa & Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa.
The palette of dusty tones, Sand, Pink Sand and Blue Haze are derived from the landscape of dunes, sea and sky. These shades work back to a core of clean Optic White and Black. Colors work as tone on tone in the textural 'Palm' print as well as the second print, a delicate hand drawn stripe, offered in a combination of two opposing color ways.
Silhouettes are influenced by traditional Middle Eastern costume, which also inspires the manipulation of printed lines around the body. Easier pieces are cut with movement and have planes of striped cloth, tucked and folded to offer distorted optical patterns.
Fabrications give depth to the collection through natural fiber qualities, and texture is created with surfaces broken with stripe weaves, mini pleats, accent Dobby weaves and undulating fringes. The palm leaf is taken as a symbolic motif from the island and is interpreted in the use of sunray pleating in tops, skirts and dresses, all contributing to a flow in movement.
Embellishments also echo the leaf frond and are worked as a literal motif in tone on tone thread-work, or traditional 'Pitta' work, in Metallic Bronze. Styling pays tribute to the masculine and feminine, by contrasting clean mannish tailoring and separates worn back to drape, offering fullness and movement.
For Noon By Noor’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection, designers Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa drew inspiration from Bahrain’s starry night sky setting a poetic whimsical narrative. This is expressed in light fluid silhouettes, lux gold accented fabrics, Arabic script quoting “to the moon and back” and delicate feather hand worked embroidery referencing the Bulbul – the national bird of Bahrain.
Juxtaposed by strong mannish tailoring, this pronounced contrast is exhibited through the refined balance of softness and strength, which is showcased through stronger wider shoulders and oversized coats, paired back to cover feminine silhouettes.
“We contrast fluid draped silhouettes with tailored masculine shapes, which attests to our brands aesthetic” said Shaikha Noor.
Shaikha Haya added that “Fall 2018 focuses on contrasting fabrication, clean silhouettes and sharp tailoring complemented by delicate details”
Fabrication and silhouettes testify to this balance, from heavy oversized wool Cavalry Twill weaves, Short Pile Faux Fur jackets, classic Savile Row menswear coatings, and statement shearling sleeves, to soft fluid chiffons and sleek silhouettes in Gold Lurex Striped Tailoring.
Color is used as a powerful tool for Fall 2018. Atomic Yellow takes a backseat and is used as a highlight, while the introduction of Hot Pink is worked across the fabric palette, resulting in bold one color looks from head to toe. Black and Midnight Blue form the core of the collection. Black is punctuated with gold in both woven cloth developments and decoration.
Separates this season offer varied combinations in both contrasting and matching fabrications for the modern suit, as dresses vary from slips for day to fluid gowns for evening Fall 2018 extends in both fabrication and color to create a complete range, giving more depth and texture to what has been seen from Noon By Noor in Pre-Fall 2018.
Reem Acra pre-fall 2018 collection continued her signature red carpet dressings, while this time she focused on lightness and comfort, but preserve her delicate aesthetic.
She also played with unexpected hues and hard-to-pull-off colors such as mustard, yellow and purple.
Deconstructed ribbon bows in array colors were whimsically rendered in most dresses, some were delicately embroidered around the chest and some were wrapped around the waist, which all infused a playful note and added a pretty contrast.
This season the designer paired each dress with relaxed flat sandals, creating a laid-back and cool vibe.
Fresh, light, sheer and whimsical, Reem Acra pre-fall 2018 collection can definitely resonate with women of any age looking for taste with fun.
The pioneering MAN initiative was launched in 2005 by Fashion East and TOPMAN as the first support scheme for new menswear design talent. Starting with a place on London’s womenswear schedule, by 2009 MAN began London’s first menswear day of shows before paving the way for the launch of London Collections Men in June 2012. This season, 3 new talented designers played out a well-curated feast.
Voluminous denim pieces in classic blues and monochromes were juxtaposed with worn white tops and fluid mint green jersey pyjamas. The collection played with proportion and was an experimental take on the designer’s own wardrobe: “It’s about scale, about finding a balance pieces between either huge or small.”
FENG CHEN WANG:
Wang’s SS17 collection explored and celebrated connectivity in the digital age, the cables that connect and manipulate the structures of the garments encapsulates this concept. The combination of functionality with an astute attention to detail and a strong focus on outwear pieces continues to lie at the core of the brand’s aesthetic.
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY:
Charles Jeffrey is a Central St Martin’s MA graduate, illustrator and radical creative. His cast of artists, musicians and friends stomped down a flower strewn catwalk recreating a scene from Jeffrey’s cult clubnight LOVERBOY. His love of tailoring permeated the line up. Signature knits collaged with chainmail came worn with Swarovski bug encrusted boxers and ‘foam’ accessories made in collaboration with Matty Bovan.