'I’ve been following Following your mind's instructions On how to just slowly, sharply screw myself to death'
Horrowshow, The Libertines
Ours is a peculiarly violent time for the mind. The stop-starts of progression and regression happening inexplicably in tandem.
It’s an unreasonable load for the spirit to bear.
While those who govern us publicly falter and fail – the fabric of our everyday lives pulled apart by policy – as citizens we are asked to meet with a labyrinth of enormous geo-political ideas, which have become almost too big for us to contend with. A sense of crisis is un-ignorable, but the target's ever-moving – an intangible enemy at the gate.
The body of work that is LOVERBOY SS20 erupted beneath violent pressure; as a diamond under heat. Formed in the eye of a storm, or the centre of a furnace, Charles Jeffrey proposes these clothes as physical, visceral responses to societal change. In first considering human shortcomings, Jeffrey explores too the human potential.
New pattern-cutting techniques, geographic and gestural, become a kind of visual exploration of the civil consciousness of Jeffrey’s generation. Seersucker suiting and featherweight jacquards, referencing armour and civil service uniforms, speak to the need for both freedom and protection. Opal blue silk column dresses appear disarmingly serene; the contradictory detailing of military jackets slung across them. Across the collection lie brutal, intricately layered rips and tears - or are they fault lines...?
Returning to the ideas of consciousness and confusion: The literal broken records of our soundtrack vibrate with questions. How, then, to make sense of the extremity of modern living? Perhaps peace can still be found in the beautiful and the unexplained. The enduring wonder of the human psyche, or the secret mystery of music. Joining us in The British Library tonight – physically, in spirit, and through the collections surrounding us - are some of the great thinkers and feelers who, to LOVERBOY, incite belief.
Something linear streaks through central ideas of maps, guitar riffs, neural networks. We consider where we're going, and where we've been. These are clothes that are alive to the primacy of thought.
A sense of rebellion can't be ignored – at the beginning of a formative new chapter for his business; Jeffrey considers what modern punk looks like. Perhaps it looks like expectation... The idea that anarchism simply identifies that any force which dominates us has a burden of proof to bear.
This show deals in intricate thinking and feeling; over-burdened hearts and minds.
Unveiled in the grounds of the Embassy of the United Kingdom on the famous Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the Ralph & Russo Autumn-Winter 2019/2020 couture collection depicts a 1930s soirée en plein air; a lively scene wrought with flora, fauna and the majestic opulence of the Art Deco era.
Lensed by the creative works of artist and designer, Erté, evening gowns are sensually draped and bestrewn with strings of pearls, exposing elongated hourglass silhouettes and emulating his Les Bijoux de Perle.
Daring shades of red, pink, yellow and aqua are fused in ombré hues and juxtaposed with ice-white feather embellished cocktail dresses and black bejewelled smoking jackets; at once elegant and sophisticated, but with a masculine edge.
Embellished in true Art Deco form with opalescent fan-shaped embroideries and designs that are simultaneously geometric and spherical, this season’s collection translates the pastiche of influences behind the Art Deco movement into a continued celebration of the modern female and her multi-faceted form amid the joie de vivre of an era almost a century past.
Romeo Hunte’s Fall/Winter 2019 Collection pays rightful homage to the fashion trends of the early to mid-1900’s. Hunte mixes vintage glam, grit and street to create a collection filled with fur, fringe, and fascinators.
The collection features tie dye bodysuits, satin poncho puffers, denim, trench coats, lambskin tie dye jackets, and biker jackets; staying true to their unique and trendy outwear ethos. Tassels, embellishments, fishnets and a bright color palette compliment the unique designs.
Models who walked the runway included Jason Rodriguez of Pose, and NFL players DJ Moore and AJ Hardy, along with others of various backgrounds, sizes, color and gender, which speaks to the inclusivity that the brand portrays.
Key attendees included Eric Rutherford, Miss J Alexander, Julie Mintz, and Andrea Rachel.
ABOUT ROMEO HUNTE
The Romeo Hunte brand was created in 2013 and rests on outerwear that finds the perfect synergy between modernity and luxury. Their vision is to create modern classic apparel that is practical and transitional at a contemporary price point. Designed in New York City, the line embodies an aesthetic that is cool and intricate, with a seamless balance between feminine and masculine. Romeo Hunte has been worn by First Lady of US, Michelle Obama, Beyoncé, Zendaya, Victor Cruz, Dee Hilfiger, Halle Berry, Gabrielle Union, Rita Ora, Dwayne Wade, Evan Turner, Laverne Cox, Justine Skye and more.
The pioneering MAN initiative was launched in 2005 by Fashion East and TOPMAN as the first support scheme for new menswear design talent. Starting with a place on London’s womenswear schedule, by 2009 MAN began London’s first menswear day of shows before paving the way for the launch of London Collections Men in June 2012. This season, 3 new talented designers played out a well-curated feast.
Voluminous denim pieces in classic blues and monochromes were juxtaposed with worn white tops and fluid mint green jersey pyjamas. The collection played with proportion and was an experimental take on the designer’s own wardrobe: “It’s about scale, about finding a balance pieces between either huge or small.”
FENG CHEN WANG:
Wang’s SS17 collection explored and celebrated connectivity in the digital age, the cables that connect and manipulate the structures of the garments encapsulates this concept. The combination of functionality with an astute attention to detail and a strong focus on outwear pieces continues to lie at the core of the brand’s aesthetic.
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY:
Charles Jeffrey is a Central St Martin’s MA graduate, illustrator and radical creative. His cast of artists, musicians and friends stomped down a flower strewn catwalk recreating a scene from Jeffrey’s cult clubnight LOVERBOY. His love of tailoring permeated the line up. Signature knits collaged with chainmail came worn with Swarovski bug encrusted boxers and ‘foam’ accessories made in collaboration with Matty Bovan.
The word “untitled” became a starting point of PASKAL SS17 collection. Julie Paskal reveals her vision of abstraction using simple shapes and colors. German painter Sigmar Polke and his painting “Ohne Titel (Streifenbild)” is the main coloristic inspiration. The three contrasting lines that he portrayed on the grey background embody simplicity, which the designer brings into the collection.
Acid colors, the dynamic of the laser-cut fringes and scales is Julie Paskal’s attempt to bring the spirit of the dark and diverse world of “Goa Trance” into the collection. Choosing the circle to be the main shape, Julie introduces mushroom-like laser-cut mesh and A-line dresses and skirts.
Julie Paskal tries to keep the balance between the neoteric world and eternal objects created by nature. She uses laser-cutting techniques, fluorescent colors and technical fabrics to create a new dark and pagan world where the women is a mother, partner and the centre that reunites beauty, wisdom and love.