Henrik Vibskov presented his Spring/Summer 19 show during Parisian Menswear fashion week.
Wind. This meteorological and metaphorical phenomenon inspired the SS 2019 collection. How we as mankind are depending of and using the wind as a tool for transport, energy and play. Wind can be our helpful friend but has a factor of quickly turning to be our enemy and create unexpected situations.
One can’t see the wind but how it shapes and changes things on its way forward. We measure the force of wind by visual clues from land and the sea. Wind can shape landforms and things, like dust, can travel thousands of miles. Wind powers the voyages of sailing ships across the oceans and provides a power source for mechanical work, electricity and recreation. The collection reflects the theme in various ways; the silhouettes are inspired by the movement of garments that are caught by the wind.
When the eyes are closed and the heart beats quickly, the body and mind becomes disengaged from the surroundings and the breathing becomes more shallow. As we give up our bodies to sleep, sudden twitches escape our brains and we go through a chain of sleep stages.
During the last Henrik Vibskov show, a performer fell asleep on stage for a few minutes while the performance took place. Probably a nap was needed but this is what inspired the design team to look into sleeping from different angles. What happens to us when we sleep or don’t sleep? What positions are we lying in when sleeping? Full-length, facing downwards, curled up or on our sides. Do animals, food, plants or clothing ever sleep? People sleep in a variety of locations; some directly on the ground, others on platforms or beds. Some sleep with blankets, others with pillows or simple headrests, some in sleeping bags.
The door between the dreamer and the outside world is not completely closed while images, ideas, emotions and sensations occur in the mind during the sleep. Nightmares and dreams can be story-like, flamboyant, illogical, bizarre and downright surreal. Sleeping in unconventional places, insomnia, night visions, monsters under the beds, wrinkled bed sheets and different layers of consciousness have inspired the Vibskov design team for S/S’18.
Naturally, Henrik Vibskov unveils a beautiful, yet disturbing world where opposites meet. A world of meat, vulgar baloney and salami all over the place, setting the scene to showcase the SS17.Upon entrance, a massive structure standing 20 meter long, where large piles of salamis are hanging, serves as a center piece. The atmosphere is rainy dark and gloomy. In the installation 4 heavyweight butchers operate a factory making salamis.Meat is the core of the show, at a point in time where many experts call for vegetarianism.Could meat soon become a historic legend you will tell your grandkids about?In Salami - The Kitchen of The Non Existing,two worlds clash - or do they join forces? The virtue of martial art and discipline meets a staggering and profane culture of delightful meats.
One could notice a reflection of modern society where people constantly deal with conflicting choices between sensibility, morals and desires – the latest health trend vs. letting one self go to hedonistic pleasures.Martial art has been one of the inspirations for the pattern cutting and shapes of the garments.Asian crests iconography, balance and harmony is reflected in artworks for print and knit.The unique calligraphy method was used to portray doughnuts and sausages in a beautiful and poetic interpretation. Besides being just a term for writing, calligraphy is believed to transfer energy from person to paper, from paper to receiver.In the collection you will find materials as a two faced salami dotted jacquard, where both sides have been applied and exposed, crispy poplin shirting and strong structured twill in a lining-viscose quality among others. Details on garments are topstitched cuffs and hems, that are afterwards dyed to create a puckering effect.Other centerpieces in the collection are the jacquard knitted sweaters with applied fringes and embroidery made in Denmark at the Henrik Vibskov studio.
(Credit to Victor Jones)
Henrik Vibskov welcomes you into the nutty universe of The Jaw Nuts Piece, the autumn winter 2016 collection. A great cover unveils the 22 meter long scissor structure that carries 200 blabbering and clapping wooden heads. The wooden heads are a postmodern and Asian inspired take on the traditional nutcracker. The heads’ broken language is simulating a time of an extreme and overwhelming information flow. Unstoppable information or misinformation that drives human to the boarder of sanity.A stressful and alarming soundscape will accompany the nutcrackers nervous loud jaw braking ticking and create an overwhelming sound wave to paralyze its audience.
How does the brain store all of this information? An imaginary structure of a brain keeps everything in neat order Or does everything loose its meaning? A straight walnut or a deconstructed mind.Placement print on pleats, that scatters the statement it tries to communicate. Eyepleasing jazz posters and early twentieth century commercial packaging, offering itself to one. An inferno of stripes and colours erupted by the construction of the garment.A palette of dark end colours are contrasted with bright colours inspired by 50’s labelling and packaging, colours of an offset printer. Italian custom made bonded wool in black and white and a 4-coloured option. Soft wool weaved in Great Britain and 3D knitwear.Studio made armorlike wood pieces are used as ornaments on footwear and headpieces offering the models protection as they walk around the blabbering and clapping mob of wood heads. Stripes on shoes and on bonds across the body derive details from the traditional nutcracker - which purpose was to protect the mind and homes.
Henrik Vibskov is currently working on a big solo exhibition Stockholm opening may 2016, the costumes for 2 new plays COW at Semperoper Dresdsen White magic in Graz Austria , the Swanlake at Oslo Opera House having a Replay, gonna be represented at Art Cologne.