Exciting and subtle, Hermès unveils a striking line of classic looks and well-tailored, high-quality pieces for its Fall/Winter 2019 menswear collection in the highly confidential storerooms of the French Mobilier National, the institution responsible for furnishing every official building in France. Throughout, the designer added bits of casualness to the luxurious well-cut wardrobe, including a gray double-breasted pinstriped formal suit worn with a relaxed polo shirt. Camel puffers sported silver linings.
This collection suggests a man with exacting standards and sophisticated, yet unostentatious, tastes. He likes lines that are clean and precise, but unconventional, such as the subtle, rounded shoulder on this voluminous zipped parka or barely structured shoulder on a double-breasted cashmere coat.
The flames that dance over certain pullovers emanate from the dragon that features as a pendant or on a bag. These are bursts of reverie or science fiction that are echoed in the radiant midnight blue which spans the collection.
In Prussian blue, navy and indigo variants, it is complemented by the season’s other colours: black, charcoal grey and cigar brown. But flashes of saffron, sage, turquoise, lilac and vibrant green electrify a trench coat or a short jacket in rubberised canvas. Energy flows.
Henrik Vibskov presented yesterday his Fall/Winter 19 show during Parisian Menswear fashionweek.
This collection reflects both the romantic idea about nature and how we interact with it, and the more extreme technology, making it possible to increase and speed up natural processes, like indoor, vertical- and sky farming, green rooftops and urban gardening. The clash between wanting to maintain nature pure as it is and the need to interfere with it, is intriguing and terrifying at the same time.
The idea of farming, nature and technology was the inspiration for the development of the collection. Voluminous silhouettes with details of binding layers together and prints and embroidery which remind of flowers, fruit, vegetables, endless fields, and the long human arms in the agriculture. Humor with a slight touch of melancholy and a reminder of the importance of environmental awareness is present.
A long kinetic installation is slowly moving in waves, while performers dressed like gardeners are walking inside of it. They are carrying ceramic water cans, taking care of the radishes growing inside of it. The radishes are grown in the Henrik Vibskov Studio in Copenhagen and are placed in recycled beer kegs as a part of the urban farming experiment, hence the name of the collection. The installation is a take on the idea of an intriguing future-farming lab.
Kim Jones presented his final Louis Vuitton runway show on Thursday, with super models Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss both dressed in glazed monogram raincoats and high-shine hiking boots surprisingly appeared at the runway.
“It’s about clothes that can change, about fabrics that can travel on the body – and transform,” Jones wrote in the show notes. “Discovering something new. A constant voyage.”
Sportswear was the key for this collection such as the genius patchwork monogrammed leggings, formed from technical fabrics and printed with lava, craters and reflective monograms; the cowboy-hiker boots with luxurious python skin and Louis Vuitton-embossed monogram, baseball tees and mountaineering active wear - which all spoke to the brands rooted heritage in travel.
Coats with glossy fabrics, metallic effects and ashy palette of mineral tones, fully showed luxurious tailoring and upscale craftsmanship.
Kim Jones waved goodbye. But it's never a destination; it's always a journey.
When the eyes are closed and the heart beats quickly, the body and mind becomes disengaged from the surroundings and the breathing becomes more shallow. As we give up our bodies to sleep, sudden twitches escape our brains and we go through a chain of sleep stages.
During the last Henrik Vibskov show, a performer fell asleep on stage for a few minutes while the performance took place. Probably a nap was needed but this is what inspired the design team to look into sleeping from different angles. What happens to us when we sleep or don’t sleep? What positions are we lying in when sleeping? Full-length, facing downwards, curled up or on our sides. Do animals, food, plants or clothing ever sleep? People sleep in a variety of locations; some directly on the ground, others on platforms or beds. Some sleep with blankets, others with pillows or simple headrests, some in sleeping bags.
The door between the dreamer and the outside world is not completely closed while images, ideas, emotions and sensations occur in the mind during the sleep. Nightmares and dreams can be story-like, flamboyant, illogical, bizarre and downright surreal. Sleeping in unconventional places, insomnia, night visions, monsters under the beds, wrinkled bed sheets and different layers of consciousness have inspired the Vibskov design team for S/S’18.
“In my end is my beginning” — Designers Valentin and Florentin
Thicker than water and lies within the footsteps of last summer, this ICOSAE collection rediscovers the Icosae man, stronger, sharper yet delicate and sensitive. The new Fall/Winter 17 collection is immersed in the stories of bloodlines and explores family ties, a bond stronger than any other but full of conflict.
Taking inspiration from English royalty and Kings’ scandals of abdications to the art paint and costumes of Ainou and African tribes or even from the designers' experience of brotherhood, the idea of family, power games and affiliation has been explored. Those concepts transformed into design, cuts and ornaments coming together for the collection:
The iconic detail of the season, the cut and turn sleeve, is on every piece of the collection: coats, tailored jackets and even street-wear pieces.
Strict uniforms inspired the silhouette of the season with subtle movement in fabric compositions: luxurious cashmere, liquid metal-coated tweed and printed wool.
Affiliation elements are present everywhere through branded metal details, embroideries and a range of prints and patchwork all painted in house.
The word “untitled” became a starting point of PASKAL SS17 collection. Julie Paskal reveals her vision of abstraction using simple shapes and colors. German painter Sigmar Polke and his painting “Ohne Titel (Streifenbild)” is the main coloristic inspiration. The three contrasting lines that he portrayed on the grey background embody simplicity, which the designer brings into the collection.
Acid colors, the dynamic of the laser-cut fringes and scales is Julie Paskal’s attempt to bring the spirit of the dark and diverse world of “Goa Trance” into the collection. Choosing the circle to be the main shape, Julie introduces mushroom-like laser-cut mesh and A-line dresses and skirts.
Julie Paskal tries to keep the balance between the neoteric world and eternal objects created by nature. She uses laser-cutting techniques, fluorescent colors and technical fabrics to create a new dark and pagan world where the women is a mother, partner and the centre that reunites beauty, wisdom and love.
"I was very happy when Jacquemus got in touch with me concerning that collaboration. For me as choreographer it's of course a great joy to see that my performance "bodies in urban places" increasingly also finds entrance into other creative fields such as the fashion world. Simon had a very clear vision about the motive he wanted for the picture, so that was easy to decide on. The challenge for me in this special case was to arrange the models as an interesting body sculpture on the one hand, butto make sure at the same time that the clothes don't lose anything from their impression" - Willi Dorner
"We are all a group of people together, so there is no individuality in this campaign, and there is something very playful. I like that in Jacquemus there is no hierarchy" - Simon Porte Jacquemus
Photo: David Luraschi
Body Installation: Willi Dorner