Exciting and subtle, Hermès unveils a striking line of classic looks and well-tailored, high-quality pieces for its Fall/Winter 2019 menswear collection in the highly confidential storerooms of the French Mobilier National, the institution responsible for furnishing every official building in France. Throughout, the designer added bits of casualness to the luxurious well-cut wardrobe, including a gray double-breasted pinstriped formal suit worn with a relaxed polo shirt. Camel puffers sported silver linings.
This collection suggests a man with exacting standards and sophisticated, yet unostentatious, tastes. He likes lines that are clean and precise, but unconventional, such as the subtle, rounded shoulder on this voluminous zipped parka or barely structured shoulder on a double-breasted cashmere coat.
The flames that dance over certain pullovers emanate from the dragon that features as a pendant or on a bag. These are bursts of reverie or science fiction that are echoed in the radiant midnight blue which spans the collection.
In Prussian blue, navy and indigo variants, it is complemented by the season’s other colours: black, charcoal grey and cigar brown. But flashes of saffron, sage, turquoise, lilac and vibrant green electrify a trench coat or a short jacket in rubberised canvas. Energy flows.
Designer Yusuke Takahashi presented his Spring 2019 Menswear collection during Paris Fashion Week: Men's in a way of comfort, freedom, lightness and chic. “The boundaries between work, leisure and privacy have become blurred,” the show notes said. Shirts can be worn like jackets and t-shirts can be worn like shirts.
The key word of the collection was the sun. So the sun has the meaning of the axis, and it reminds us of the brilliant future. Yusuke expresses the sunlight or prism with pop colors and shadow, with the skills of the craftsmen to make the contrast between the traditional dying technique and pop colors. The idea of light is translated through new techniques on knitwear composed of washable threads and different colors which create a 3D effect after the first wash.
Henrik Vibskov presented his Spring/Summer 19 show during Parisian Menswear fashion week.
Wind. This meteorological and metaphorical phenomenon inspired the SS 2019 collection. How we as mankind are depending of and using the wind as a tool for transport, energy and play. Wind can be our helpful friend but has a factor of quickly turning to be our enemy and create unexpected situations.
One can’t see the wind but how it shapes and changes things on its way forward. We measure the force of wind by visual clues from land and the sea. Wind can shape landforms and things, like dust, can travel thousands of miles. Wind powers the voyages of sailing ships across the oceans and provides a power source for mechanical work, electricity and recreation. The collection reflects the theme in various ways; the silhouettes are inspired by the movement of garments that are caught by the wind.
This season’s byword is clear: recycle / re-use. And by literally recycling this universal theme, the Faith Connexion collective undertakes a witty exploration of dress codes with a sharp sense of parody. The brand’s iconic pieces are thus reinterpreted through this new lens.
The message runs through the collection like a common thread, in the form of a red tuxedo stripe with black lettering. The band looks equally at home on an elegant flare trouser, on a blue jogger, and of course the brand’s indispensable wide-leg sequined trouser. It reprints itself on the fantastic modular linings of military parkas and work wear pieces. In printed fake fur or gold sequins, the linings are reversible, offering a view of quilted interiors printed with the message "reusable," and a space for the owner’s name. Versatility is the key, with each part detaching from the whole, allowing each wearer to compose his own garment at will.
The brand’s iconic 90’s style blazer reinvents itself as a chic jumpsuit, or turns playfully into a mini dress with a plunging back. The classic sheepskin with its oversize cut finds itself adorned with prints and shares the spotlight with red moiré micro bombers. A fantastic cape made of Swiss military tent fabric keeps its classic proportions but exudes a rocker vibe thanks to a crazy tri-color fur lining. An impeccable reversible wool coats offers a mix and match of noble materials. Spectacular ultra-oversize down jackets come fur-lined with sequined exteriors, or in Scottish classic tweed with red fur and black vinyl trim. An elegant blouse with a large lavaliere collar is reinterpreted in a sublime, shimmering technical fabric to amazing effect.
The creative tribe continues to grow, with the brand’s characteristic collaborations multiplying again this season.
Inspired by the iconic mouse, the collective has teamed up with Disney to celebrate Mickey, who will celebrate his 90th birthday this coming November, with a teaser collection of nine pieces.
Sita Abellan returns for a third capsule, with her inimitable punk spirit shining through in a black vinyl raincoat and silver jumpsuit. The Naples-based team NTMB returns as well to continue their work around denim.
Newcomer Dionysios, a visual and conceptual artist of Greek origin, constructs a story around the artist painter’s wardrobe, imagining clothes that bear witness to the creative process as well as being works of art in and of themselves. From the surrealist parka to the paint-stained jeans and the theater inspired red suede "troupe" jacket marked with gold splashes, all the pieces have a history and are part of a numbered series. And in a whimsical twist, the phone number inscribed on the denim jacket with a label promising "call for a good time" will actually be reachable!
Raw and spontaneous, the Winter 2018 collection once again celebrates the uniqueness of the individual and gives every person the opportunity to take ownership of pieces whose stories will continue to evolve with wear.
JAREL ZHANG Fall Winter 18-19 collection is inspired by human curiosity and desire for the exploration of the unknown world. With the theme “Wherever you are”, Jarel wants to express that no matter where you are, no matter what you are facing, you need to have the courage to face, overcome, and explore.
In terms of the fabric selection for this season, Jarel has boldly chosen mirror effect leather and printed down feather fabric as the main materials, which makes the pieces cold resistant in autumn and winter while also giving them a sense of science and technology. Some pieces were also hand-painted by Jarel. Meanwhile, this season further expands the product structures and categories. While retaining the sense of design, it breaks the boundaries of different shapes, genders, ages, and people, making it suitable for more people to wear.
With a presentation full of mystery; tents, lamp posts, and a blue background projected around the space, Jarel Zhang creates the atmosphere of an unknown world.
The models explore their ways forward into this unknown and mysterious world, holding compasses, carrying bags, wearing hiking shoes, and holding lamps; Jarel turned the presentation into a play full of artistry.
The sense of science and technology is in every detail of the 18AW series, such as the blue and yellow patterns hand- painted by Jarel, the structural division of large silhouettes, and the three-dimensional design, which shows how Jarel made a complete plan and design for this mysterious space.
Epitomising effortless elegance, the Ralph & Russo Autumn/Winter 2018 Prêt-à-Porter collection presents an adaptable offering for the modern woman and her multifaceted lifestyle.
Comprised of thirty-five looks, the second Prêt-à-Porter collection explores plongé leather separates, multi-use biker jackets, and off-the-shoulder gowns; in addition to asymmetric knits and open fronted cascading bouquet skirts, which feature as key silhouettes.
This season’s color palette is derived from minerals: shimmering ice-pastels, flashes of mirrored gold, and traces of hyper-glossed jet black. Contrasting textures can also be found throughout as feminine smoky pink cashmere turtlenecks oppose oversized houndstooth outerwear, whilst liquid double satin silk tuxedos and crunchy metallic leather skirts ensure our cosmopolitan muse knows no bounds.
Bespoke debossed buttons highlight the house codes of traditionalism and creativity, offset by rubberized leather details heeding to adventure.
Free-spirited yet bold, the Ralph & Russo woman is equipped to encounter the farthest corners of this world.
Ralph & Russo Spring/Summer 2018 couture is a continued celebration of the many facets of all women and the collection pays homage to the Eastern exploration of Creative Director, Tamara Ralph.
Resonant of traditional Asian decoration and punctuated by imperial red silk crêpe, acid green gazar and canary yellow silk satin; the collection is a spectrum of exoticism, with transparent illusion tulle suits, crystal embroidered jacquard and draped kimono-style silhouettes edged in layers of decorative tassels.
Moulded white crêpe jasmine petals and powder blue organza chrysanthemums enhance delicately hand painted florals and songbirds, whilst tiers of devoré ostrich feathers and chiffon ruffles reflect the features of sacred eastern architecture.
Metallic crystal chainmail and silk lamé return in an underlying theme of reflection, not only of the creative mind and exploration, but of the importance of travel for today’s modern woman.
Pale pink silk organza ballgown, featuring a hand painted bodice, ribbon embroidered peplum and geometric petal embroidered overskirt.
Over 30 metres of silk organza has been hand cut by 25 specialist artisans to create opulent 3D flowers consisting of multiple layers of light pink silk organza. Each flower is finished in the centre with a rose water opal stone to enhance the femininity of the piece.
Nude pink illusion tulle draped gown intricately embellished with crystals, navette stones, xilions and hand-cut metallic sequins. The incredibly opulent jewellery-inspired design on an illusion tulle base is sparkling with over 10,000 crystals, navette stones, xillions and specially cut metallic sequins in shades of silk and rose gold.
White tulle cocktail dress with cape, adorned with devor. ostrich and coque feathers enhanced by metallic Swarovski crystal clusters.
The silk geometric net is embroidered with hand tied bunches of white burnt ostrich feathers and individually placed coque feathers all finished with clusters of Swarovski Crystal Stones and love beads.
Pale blue and pink lurex engineered floral jacquard mini dress, featuring a contrasting midnight blue duchess sash edged with handmade metallic tassels, 3D petal and chain embroidery.
Yumi Katsura is thrilled to announce her new Couture collection « Bonds » influenced by famous Japanese and European painters such as Hokusai, Monet, Van Gogh and Rivière. Ambassador of these two cultures she builds a bridge between far East and West with her 2018 Spring/Summer collection.
Yumi Katsura pays a tribute to the famous painter Hukosai and the traditional Japanese art «Ukiyo-e». These Japanese woodblock prints greatly inspired western painting. Seduced by the magic of the master painters Yumi Katsura catches the miracle of nature. Once again wildlife is omnipresent in her creations. Full of prints and life, this collection honors the silk dyeing traditional technique called Yuzen.
Deeply concerned by the Japanese “savoir-faire“, Yumi Katsura preserves and enhances ancestral methods of creation. Her fabrics are smooth, graceful, sophisticated and they magnificently highlight a dazzling range of colors.
Rooted in Paris fashion, the shapes of the fashion house symbolize her identity. Yumi Katsura offers us a journey where tradition and modernity merge in a poetic embrace.
Kim Jones presented his final Louis Vuitton runway show on Thursday, with super models Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss both dressed in glazed monogram raincoats and high-shine hiking boots surprisingly appeared at the runway.
“It’s about clothes that can change, about fabrics that can travel on the body – and transform,” Jones wrote in the show notes. “Discovering something new. A constant voyage.”
Sportswear was the key for this collection such as the genius patchwork monogrammed leggings, formed from technical fabrics and printed with lava, craters and reflective monograms; the cowboy-hiker boots with luxurious python skin and Louis Vuitton-embossed monogram, baseball tees and mountaineering active wear - which all spoke to the brands rooted heritage in travel.
Coats with glossy fabrics, metallic effects and ashy palette of mineral tones, fully showed luxurious tailoring and upscale craftsmanship.
Kim Jones waved goodbye. But it's never a destination; it's always a journey.
When the eyes are closed and the heart beats quickly, the body and mind becomes disengaged from the surroundings and the breathing becomes more shallow. As we give up our bodies to sleep, sudden twitches escape our brains and we go through a chain of sleep stages.
During the last Henrik Vibskov show, a performer fell asleep on stage for a few minutes while the performance took place. Probably a nap was needed but this is what inspired the design team to look into sleeping from different angles. What happens to us when we sleep or don’t sleep? What positions are we lying in when sleeping? Full-length, facing downwards, curled up or on our sides. Do animals, food, plants or clothing ever sleep? People sleep in a variety of locations; some directly on the ground, others on platforms or beds. Some sleep with blankets, others with pillows or simple headrests, some in sleeping bags.
The door between the dreamer and the outside world is not completely closed while images, ideas, emotions and sensations occur in the mind during the sleep. Nightmares and dreams can be story-like, flamboyant, illogical, bizarre and downright surreal. Sleeping in unconventional places, insomnia, night visions, monsters under the beds, wrinkled bed sheets and different layers of consciousness have inspired the Vibskov design team for S/S’18.
“In my end is my beginning” — Designers Valentin and Florentin
Thicker than water and lies within the footsteps of last summer, this ICOSAE collection rediscovers the Icosae man, stronger, sharper yet delicate and sensitive. The new Fall/Winter 17 collection is immersed in the stories of bloodlines and explores family ties, a bond stronger than any other but full of conflict.
Taking inspiration from English royalty and Kings’ scandals of abdications to the art paint and costumes of Ainou and African tribes or even from the designers' experience of brotherhood, the idea of family, power games and affiliation has been explored. Those concepts transformed into design, cuts and ornaments coming together for the collection:
The iconic detail of the season, the cut and turn sleeve, is on every piece of the collection: coats, tailored jackets and even street-wear pieces.
Strict uniforms inspired the silhouette of the season with subtle movement in fabric compositions: luxurious cashmere, liquid metal-coated tweed and printed wool.
Affiliation elements are present everywhere through branded metal details, embroideries and a range of prints and patchwork all painted in house.
On September 28th, Paris based WANDA NYLON, winner of the 2016 ANDAM fashion prize, presented its Spring/Summer17 collection, featuring 28 sharp and assertive looks.
The collection is meant for a strong, independent feminine woman, referencing urban aesthetics, and experiments with numerous materials and textures to enhance a play on light, going from opaque Alcantara coats and fluid silk dresses to reflective jackets, iridescent Swarovski crystals mesh separates and see-through silk looks.
For the first time, Wanda Nylon collaborates with Maison Desrues, a Chanel subsidiary, to create an accessories capsule collection composed of metal waterfall earrings, chain lariat necklaces and 4 models of bags.
The eyewear collection is part of a long-term collaboration with Peter & May Walk.
ABOUT WANDA NYLON
Launched in 2012, WANDA NYLON is a designer label based in Paris.
The brand has made a name for itself by elevating rainwear classics, giving them a contemporary spin and proposing statement silhouettes, and by the constant research for innovative fabrics as well as the creation of cutting-edge designs. The WANDA NYLON style draws a pure outline both strong and modern; the attitude is free-spirited with a sophisticated twist, allowing the woman to feel empowered, confident and charismatic.
Since early 2015, the label's designer Johanna Senyk has extended the range to a complete wardrobe. The SS17 WANDA NYLON collection will also propose jewelry, shoes, sunglasses and bags.
Wanda Nylon has been awarded the ANDAM Grand Prize in 2016, and is stocked at about 50 retailers, including Selfridges, Galeries Lafayette, Restir, H Lorenzo.
Again, Dries eschewed the grandeur of the Hotel de Ville for a nondescript warehouse, accessed through a garage door. The clothes within, however, contained all the decadence, opulence and imagination that Casati and her lover (the corrupt poet Gabriele D'Annunzio), fashioned their reputations and wardrobes with.
The opening look of capacious faux leopard-fur trousers felt more Muppet Show than 1900 Grand Canal palazzo, but Casati's sense of drama and opulence was felt everywhere else. Leopard print, rich velvet and decorative pearls were repeated themes, matched with Prince of Wales check and sporting blazers for day, then ramped up with sequins and ornate jacquards for night. Star pieces included a beautiful leopard cape worn over wide creased cream trousers, as well as an audacious velvet leopard print suit. Casati kept a pet boa snake (as well as cheetahs with jewelled collars), and snake print decorated ankle boots with sculptural heels, or wound their way across a long black crepe evening dress and the lapel of a tuxedo. Bordeaux and champagne velvets used in sweeping gowns, skirts and sleeveless tops were redolent of the thick draped curtains that hung from her palazzo windows, keeping prying eyes from the opium and cocaine being experimented with inside.
This season, ISSEY MIYAKE MEN places man in the wilderness. The nomadic way of life and the constant struggle with nature’s elements - wind, snow, ice and rain - made man to learn to rely on his instincts to survive in a harsh environment.
Drawing upon these human instincts, the AUTUMN WINTER 2016 collection identifies a new sense of elegance and comfort in creating a relaxed sophistication.
By using rough materials combined with refined fibers, dusty colors touched with vivid ones, warm clothes with sporty silhouettes, simple cheerful knits, this collection expresses the desire of contemporary man to return to the primal feeling of life.