It was her first time at that rodeo, but not for the fashion industry, which has so often mixed performance art and runway shows to cringeworthy lows. Perhaps that’s what made this one so thrilling. Rarely has any foreign element in a fashion show been so entrancing, or added as much character to a collection as the one Chiuri commissioned from Sharon Eyal’s dance company this afternoon, in a dimmed tent in Bois de Boulogne. Maybe it’s because it wasn’t trying to be poignant. Rather, it was energised, spirited, ravishing and totally transfixing. You could have sat there all day getting shivers watching those racehorse bodies tripping and floating like they were trapped somewhere between underwater weightlessness and on fire, white rose petals dropping from the ceiling in thousand-fold. The soundtrack was amazing and hard to describe.
Watching one of his runway shows can sometimes feel a little masochistic – who actually looks like that on that holiday?
Jacquemus’ brand has been built off the back of his South of France heritage, and through channeling the insouciant sensuality of the women he grew up admiring. This season hardly rocked the boat - he explored his Riviera fantasy, of women “going to the casino on the seashore, dancing, drinking cocktails” – but it made for as lovely a vision as ever. “I’m a South of France boy; I never want to say anything about Paris. I want to say something about the Mediterranean,” he shrugged. “On the Riviera, you can dress the same to go to the beach as you do the red carpet and that mix is exciting to me.”
The artfully-undone beach-to-bar pieces he presented made a convincing case for his sustained interest – and, paired with glitzy earrings and wedges dangling plastic Js from their soles, were Italo disco through and through. Remember that scene in Call Me By Your Name, when an assortment of beautiful Lombardy teenagers lose themselves to Psychedelic Furs? Camille Hurel, dressed in her hot pink hot pants and slinky silky halter could have been pulled directly from the cast.
Marni Spring Summer 2019