What you see is what you get at Chloé, and the tactic seems to work with a new fan base, who rocked up to the show in head-to-toe looks. The collection, Ramsay-Levi explained, was divided into three parts: nomadic (a buzzword this season), “old Ibiza,” and finally the goddess dresses that closed the show, inspired by Pasolini’s Medea. Her de-intellectualisation of fashion is interesting in that it’s in no way uninformed or silly, just miles away from the complicated and sometimes wanky narratives in which so many designers love to indulge. It makes for instantly shoppable fashion that needs no dissecting, analysis, or interpretation. Other, of course, than why Ramsay-Levi chose the reference in the first place? “I love hippies and I think it’s a great counter-culture. It’s inspiring still today because it’s people who reboot to a new zero; an idea of how you can reinvent life, your link to sensuality, to community. I think it’s still very relevant and I want to bring it to the city.”
In times that can easily feel apocalyptic – global warming, wars and refugees, species dying out – you can understand why people would want to reflect the peace, love and harmony of the original flower children. If a new gang of modernist hippies ever need a symbol for their cause, Ramsay-Levi delivered it in big golden ‘C’ – for Chloé – logo buckles adorning the copious amounts of bags featured in the show. In a Paris Fashion Week that sees the return of Hedi Slimane to the runway tomorrow, when he takes the reins at the newly-styled Celine, it was hard not to think of the C bag he has just launched for that house.