Marni Spring Summer 2019
For this spring collection, unveiled in a week when Etro, in celebration of its 50th birthday, is also putting on an exhibition at Milan’s MUDEC museum, the holiday vibe was literal. Etro took the surfer girl - albeit primed for a 5-star vacation - as her muse, and threw some paisley-patterned surfboards down the catwalk, plus a real life champion surfer, the implausibly beautiful Victoria Vergara, to up the street cred.
Surfer girls seem to have seeped into fashion’s collective consciousness this season, most obviously at Calvin Klein, but also at Prada (those knitted surfer bootie/sandal hybrids) and Michael Kors (sunset printed knits) but none was as literal as Etro’s take. Sun-kissed and ready-salted, this was a holiday wardrobe heading on a Pacific jaunt with pit stops in California, Hawaii, and Japan. It comprised racks of zesty-coloured silk pyjama sets and crochet mini dresses, as well as towelling ponchos and patchwork cardigans to throw over sunburnt shoulders. Shells dripped from earrings and necks, wrists and ankles, lingering above little surf shoes and brocade slides. Evening options abounded - embroidered and patterned wrap dresses plus chiffon pleated ankle-grazers. “Good vibes,” was Etro’s verdict.
This made the highlight of today’s Tod’s show - a roomy, paper-thin leather shirt dress on the Italian Vittoria Ceretti - an altogether more impressive feat. Leather shirts don’t exactly scream “warm weather staple” but in the handling of the Tod’s team, specifically rendered in a peachy pink and worn with flat sandals, it looked just the thing for the front row, many of whom have been surprised by the sweltering heat this week in sunny Italy.
Elsewhere, the design team majored in a preppy, Italian-who’s-switched-Capri-for-the-Hamptons aesthetic that combined practicality with a modish luxury. Leather pants were cut slim and cropped at the ankle. Suede jackets with energising stripes sat neatly above politely slit pencil skirts. Most of the shoes were flat, acessorized with exuberant sprays of tassels, which lent a no-nonsense air to the collection. Shirt dresses were tailored and cinched at the waist with an attractive Tod’s signature, the double T belt, or wrapped from the waist down. The bags had silver slicks of hardware and plaited loop handles, sometimes in raffia, that perfectly summed up the season’s swoon for handicraft.
What sounds like it could be a recipe for chaos actually appeared thoroughly cohesive: rather than going full Carmen Miranda, Koma simply integrated a new dynamism into his modernist aesthetic and applied top-stitched flounces to scuba-style dresses; explored fishtail silhouettes and plenty of peplums. He is a very good technician, and some particularly good dresses, formed from vertically striped silk tulle, swung at the skirt with remarkable grace; the application of hand-stitched disks offered twinkling glitz to the show-stopping numbers (it’s a skill to make that much embellishment appear so ethereally light).
This season was Koma’s first segue into full-length gowns, and surely his customer base is simply wondering what took him so long – his woman is the sort who has plenty of occasion for them. While they might be more likely to wear them atop a yacht than to a juerga, his dresses packed plenty of punch – and their flocked polka dots will make for a good conversation starter at the inevitably abundant trunk shows to follow.
Vivetta has created a technicolor dream for its SS19 collection, pastel tones with fairytale, visionary fantasy, infused with an eccentric and enchanting glamour, painted in delicate hues with irony and grace.Candid swans rest on small tunics in painted inlay macramé, or on long romantic crocheted dresses; knots of blackberries in Swarovski crystals, glisten on impalpable cape dresses like clouds of degradé tulle; pretty butterflies seem to palpitate on fragile tulle bodices embroidered by hand with fringes of beads and feathers, which bloom on taffeta skirts thickly pleated as corollas of flowers grown in a fabulous greenhouse, or accompany denim trousers richly decorated with precious jewel-like embroidery.A pop rainbow, inspired by Peter Max’s 70s psychedelic graphics, illuminates suits in Nappa leather, inlaid with eccentrically Western flavour; wide skirts in sumptuous taffeta or dust coats with Elizabethan sleeves veiled by a puff of tulle are studded with magical galaxies of shiny stars.Bouquets of hydrangeas bloom on mini-dresses draped in technical organza with a liquid effect, enriched with frills and rosettes, seducing in their theatrical yet simultaneously naive glamour; fanciful blooms decorate fluffy pouf skirts worn with candid poplin shirts or balloon dresses light like meringues.
This collection is an invitation to play together - says Vivetta Ponti, founder and designer of the brand - In my illusory and smiling world grace and fantasy triumph. As if a spell transfigured the reality, making it magical. A surreal short film that never fails the happy ending.A warm, childish sense of humour lies like a breath on the striped poplin dresses in sweet macaron shades; draped tunics are created by transforming classic men’s shirts, whose sleeves become pleated skirts or whose cuffs are wrapped around necklines - as well as contrasting bows on clean poplin blouses or cut-out inlays on palazzo trousers revealing the outline of a face.Vivetta invites us to take part in this game of illusions and smiles, in this world where grace and fantasy triumph, in a reality that, transfigured in some spell, becomes magical and surreal as in a film with a happy ending.
Styling by Georgia Tal
Production & Direction by RANDOM
Casting by Caterina Matteucci @CM Casting
Hair by Beppe D’Elia using l’Oreal Professional for Beautick
Make up by Beautick
Nails by MH artist
Music by Dorian Grey
Sunglasses by Poppy Lissiman